Update: Fort Matanzas National Monument

Junior Ranger Package from
Fort Matanzas NM

Hello Junior Rangers! Here’s another package from the big mailing I received the other day.

If you recall, about a week and a half ago, I posted that I mailed out a ton of completed Junior Ranger books that I either got online or from my road trip in April (You can read about that here). Fort Matanzas NM was one of those. 

Here’s what was inside:

Fort Matanzas NM Junior Ranger Badge and Master Junior Ranger Patch

Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger Badge – awarded for completing the Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger Book (also included.) Fort Matanzas Master Junior Ranger Patch – awarded for completing the Fort Matanzas Master Junior Ranger activities in addition to the Junior Ranger book activities.

Fort Matanzas NM Junior Ranger Certificate

Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger Certificate – awarded for completing the Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger book.

Castillo de San Marcos NM Junior Ranger Badge and Master Junior Ranger Patch

Castillo de San Marcos Junior Ranger Badge – awarded for completing the Castillo de San Marcos Junior Ranger Book. I have no idea why they sent this because I did not send the book to this address. I wonder if it’s because I referenced that I had completed it in my letter… I guess they went by the honor system? Very trusting over there, lol. Castillo de San Marcos Master Junior Ranger Patch – awarded for completing the Castillo de San Marcos Master Junior Ranger activities in addition to the Junior Ranger book activities. Again, I have no idea why they sent this because I didn’t send my book to this address; I just referenced it in my letter, lol.

Letter from Ranger Rich and My Original Letter

Letter from Ranger Rich, Fort Matanzas Site Supervisor: This was nice; just kind of a general letter acknowledging that I completed the program, the enclosures, etc. The fact that he sent me both badges and patches confirms that I could have sent Castillo de San Marcos and Fort Matanzas to the same place (and would have saved $1.50 in postage too!). My Original Letter – this was also returned to me for some reason...

And that’s it! It was a nice reward for completing the book. Please read about the park, which I have posted below, and check it out the next time you’re in North Florida. But in the meantime…

Explore On, Junior Ranger! :)

Want your own Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger badge and Master Junior Ranger patch? Download the activity book online, complete the requisite activities and mail it back to the park (Fort Matanzas NM, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 1 South Castillo Drive, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084). You’ll get a badge and Master Junior Ranger patch. :)

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About Fort Matanzas National Monument

Ferry travels to Fort Matanzas National Monument. Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Things to Do

Map of Fort Matanzas NM. Image Courtesy nps.gov

Despite its small size, there are still many things to do at Fort Matanzas. Visitors are able to explore the fort by walking around the fort, viewing the exhibits or attending a Ranger Program. Brochures are available to help guide you on your visit. At the Visitor Center, you can watch a video outlining the fort’s history upon request.

There are self-guided boardwalk nature trails (brochures available in the visitor center) that lead through the maritime forest; there is also a beach boardwalk to explore. River shore fishing is allowed.

Tours to the fort are free; however you will need to take a ferry to get there. Free Boarding Passes are required and are available at the Visitor Center.

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History of Fort Matanzas

Fort Matanzas National Monument
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Fort Matanzas reminds us of the mighty Spanish empire and the conflicts they and other European nations engaged in as they battled for land and power in the developing New World.  For many years, this small coquina structure and fortified watchtower, built in the middle of nowhere, was occupied by seven Spanish soldiers charged with maintaining the safety and security of St Augustine, located 14 miles to the North.

Its story begins nearly 175 years prior to the construction of the Fort, with the Spanish massacre of French forces in 1565. That incident, likely to have taken place within the area which is now Fort Matanzas National Monument, is what cemented Spanish control of Florida for nearly 235 years and would lead to the naming of the Matanzas River.

The French “Challenge” Spain

Sketch of Fort Caroline.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Florida was claimed by the Spanish in 1513 after Ponce de Leon’s expedition there; but France gained the first position there by establishing Fort Caroline on the St Johns River in 1564 under the direction of Rene de Laudonniere. The Spanish saw this as a challenge to Spain’s claim on the territory and a potential threat to their treasure fleets. And despite protests from King Phillip II of Spain, Frenchman Jean Ribault sailed from France in May 1565 with 600 soldiers and settlers with the intent to resupply Fort Caroline.

Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles
Photo Courtesy

Spain Retaliates Against the French

In response, King Philip II sent an expedition to eliminate the French threat and to establish settlements in Florida. They also sailed in May 1565. The 800-person expedition group, led by Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles, arrived to St Johns River in September 1565, shortly after Ribault. Menendez was unsuccessful in boarding the French ships that were anchored there, so he sailed farther south to a Timucuan village called Seloy. The Spanish landed there on September 8 and named their new settlement St Augustine because the land had first been sighted on August 28 (the Feast Day of St Augustine). He established the settlement to use as a base for further operations against the French.

Ribault Makes His Move; Menendez Counters

Jean Ribault
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Two days later, the French, led by Jean Ribault, immediately sent a fleet south to attack the Spanish settlement at St Augustine, but a violent storm (hurricane) caused them to be wrecked and scattered along the Florida coast (somewhere between present-day Daytona Beach and Cape Canaveral).

Anticipating that Fort Caroline would be less-guarded, the Spanish, led by Menendez, headed northward to attack the fort. His assumption was correct and he was easily able to capture the French settlement, killing most of the men in battle. Some of the inhabitants, including Fort Caroline’s founder Rene de Laudonniere, were able to escape to ships and return to France. Menendez spared the women and children and sent them to Havana.

The Massacre

Menendez then learned from the Timucuan Indians that a group of white men were on the beach a few miles south of St Augustine. These were the survivors of the wreck of the French fleet. Menendez marched with 70 soldiers to where the inlet had blocked the 127 Frenchmen trying to get back to Fort Caroline.

Armed with a translator (a captured Frenchman), Menendez told the survivors how he had captured Fort Caroline and urged them to surrender; however, he made no promises that he would spare them. The survivors, having lost most of their provisions and weapons to the sea, decided to surrender. Menendez then demanded that they give up their Protestant faith and accept Catholicism. When they refused, 111 Frenchmen were killed. Only sixteen were spared: a few who said they were Catholic, some who were impressed Breton sailors and four artisans they could use at St Augustine.

Two weeks later, history would repeat itself. More French shipwreck survivors would appear at the inlet, including Jean Ribault. On October 12, Ribault and his men surrendered. Menendez again demanded the survivors give up their Protestant faith and accept Catholicism. When they refused, 134 of them were killed.

Afterward, that area became known as Matanzas, which is Spanish for “slaughters.”

One of the early, wooden watchtowers
as described in a 1671 document.
Image courtesy nps.gov

Early Days of Fort Matanzas

In 1569, the Spanish built a wooden watchtower and thatched hut just north of Matanzas inlet. It was just large enough to house six soldiers. These individuals were responsible for watching the ocean waters for potential enemy threats. If a ship was spotted, a soldier would be sent to alert St Augustine via canoe, horseback, or on foot.

The Backdoor Left Open

In November 1702, Governor Moore of Charleston, Carolina came to St Augustine to lay siege against the city. His troops were pushed back by the arrival of a relief fleet from Havana that trapped the British ships within St Augustine’s harbor. This forced Governor Moore to burn his own ships in order to escape capture by the Spanish; he also set fire to the city as they fled.

After this siege, an effort was made to strengthen the defenses of St Augustine. One of the ways they did this was to construct earthwork lines on the north and west sides of the city. The walls they created would protect their homes and property from being destroyed again; however Matanzas Inlet was left unfortified.

General James Oglethorpe
Image courtesy nps.gov

The need to correct that error became apparent in 1740 when General James Oglethorpe and his troops came from Fort Federica (Georgia) and attacked St Augustine. Because Matanzas Inlet was left unfortified, he was able to establish a blockade there. Although he was unsuccessful in his mission to capture the city and Castillo de San Marcos, his attack showed the Spanish that Matanzas Inlet had important strategic value and required a strong outpost to defend it. Governor Manuel de Montiano was convinced that he needed to build a better and more equipped watchtower than the existing wooden structure and thatched hut at Matanzas Inlet. He realized that if the British would have seized the area, they could have starved St Augustine to surrender. Thus the idea to build Fort Matanzas was born; an idea necessary to secure the “backdoor” to St Augustine.

The Fort is Built

Coquina stone.
Image Courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Governor Montiano, without the king’s permission, commissioned engineer Pedro Ruiz de Olano to build a stone structure at Matanzas Inlet that would be stronger and more reliable against the elements and enemies. This was taboo because, at the time, all fortifications required the king’s permission (approval) before construction could begin. Governor Montiano was afraid another attack would occur before the official permission was given, so he began construction anyway.

Work began on the tower in late 1740. Like Castillo de San Marcos in St Augustine, Fort Matanzas was built using coquina, a natural light and porous shell-stone, which was quarried at El Pinon (a small inlet south of Matanzas). Building the tower proved difficult as the marshy grounds at Matanzas did not provide for easy construction; long beams had to be driven into the marsh to support the stonework.

Example of a Sloop.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Under Construction, Under Attack

Construction was interrupted by attacks led by the British and Indians. On July 21, 1741, the British moved in to attack the Spanish. Two British ships, a sloop called St Philip and a schooner, sighted a Spanish sloop anchored at Matanzas Inlet. Unnoticed by the British, a Spanish galliot was able to fire upon them from long range; however they did not hit their mark. The British only stopped their advance when fog settled in and the sun went down.

Example of a Galliot.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

The next day, the British resumed their attack. The sloop St Philip moved in on the Spanish sloop, which ran aground on a sandbar in its attempt to move away from the approaching British vessel. The British opened fire on the stranded ship, killing two and wounding two others. The Spanish galliot was able to open fire on the British ships, effectively preventing them from advancing further. Luckily, the galliot was able to force the British ships to retreat back to the open sea; otherwise, the British would have succeeded in destroying the Fort Matanzas construction.

Oglethorpe returned in September 1742. By this time, Fort Matanzas had been fully constructed and armed with cannons. The British retreated without firing a shot; however, Oglethorpe was persistent and returned the following April to try again. Heavy surf conditions prevented him from approaching the inlet or landing men and arms at the beach. Neither side fired a shot.

The design’s main strength was in its location and its armaments. The structure was built on an island which was less than two-acres large. In 1750, five cannons were mounted to cover all directions of approach (only two cast iron cannons from 1793 remain). The rear of the gundeck held a water cistern which could hold 1,500 gallons of rainwater.

Fort Matanzas and the American Period

When the British gained control of Fort Matanzas in 1763, they too maintained the fort as a watchtower. They staffed the watchtower with one sergeant, six or eight infantrymen and one private from the Royal Artillery. Life for the British soldiers at the fort probably included drills, repairing the fort and equipment and foraging for food. As the American colonies moved towards revolt, more cannons were added; two 18-pounders were placed at the fort in 1763.

Sketch of Fort Matanzas in 1872.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Unfortunately, when Florida was purchased by the United States in 1821, much of the fort’s interior was in ruin and the wall and foundation at the gun platform’s east wall had cracked. Only three Spanish soldiers were living at Fort Matanzas at the time. The US Army sent an inspector to visit the site and reported back to his superiors that the tower was obsolete and was only important for historical value. Despite its ownership by the War Department, the United States army never occupied Fort Matanzas.

During the Civil War, the Union forces occupied St Augustine starting in March 1862. Confederate blockades attempted to use the Matanzas Inlet at times, but the Union army had stationed a barge in the river near the ruins of Fort Matanzas so their attempts to pass were not successful. Even all of this activity had little effect on the old, rundown tower; soon the area was abandoned again. As time passed, the tower began to deteriorate further and by 1872 was cracking and overrun with vegetation.

Fort Matanzas was dedicated as a National Monument on October 15, 1924 and handed over to the National Park Service in 1933. As a monument, Fort Matanzas, commemorates the Spanish phase of Florida’s Colonial American history. The fort has undergone a lot of stabilization and restoration to preserve its historic integrity, and as a result it stands similar to its original design.

Restoring and Preserving Fort Matanzas

Fort Matanzas in 1912. Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Wealthy visitors such as Henry Flagler and the Rockefellers came downriver from St Augustine to tour the Matanzas ruins. They believed that the historic structures of Fort Matanzas and Fort Marion (Castillo de San Marcos, as it was then known) should be saved and appealed to their friends and congressmen for help. In 1916, Congress distributed $1,025 for the repair of these structures—this act marked the first time that the federal government granted money for historical preservation.

Fort Matanzas Reconstruction, 1938.
Photo courtesy nps.gov

With Congress’ money in hand, Eugene Johnson was contracted to stabilize Fort Matanzas in 1924. Additional extensive repairs were done on Fort Matanzas. The sentry box was rebuilt, iron rods were placed within the tower, and the gun deck parapet and lower walls were rebuilt. The land surrounding the fort, known as Rattlesnake Island, was dedicated as a bird sanctuary. During the 1930s, Fort Matanzas was designated as a WPA project. A steel bulkhead and two groins were built along the water’s edge. They also rebuilt the vaulted ceiling in the officer’s quarters. Wooden stairways leading into the fort and up to the officer’s quarters were also built.

Eventually, additional land from Anastasia Island was also acquired and a dock and visitor center/superintendent’s house was able to be constructed. These structures were also made of coquina. With the dock in place, people without boats could visit the historic fort.

Today, Fort Matanzas National Monument consists of nearly 300 acres. Much of the land is preserved as a natural habitat, but the National Park Service continues to administer and preserve the fort.

Sources: nps.gov, staugustine.com