The Junior Ranger Program at Shenandoah National Park

Hello Junior Rangers! So a week ago I posted about the package I received from Shenandoah National Park for completing all of their Junior Ranger programs and detailing its contents. Well, today I decided to post about Shenandoah's Junior Ranger Program so that you all can get more information about what it takes to become a Junior Ranger at Shenandoah National Park! :)

So first, I'll start with a (very) brief overview of Shenandoah's features... and then get to the good stuff... :)

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About Shenandoah National Park

Junior Ranger Explorer at Shenandoah National Park.
Photo courtesy nps.gov

Shenandoah National Park is a great way to experience the great American outdoors. Driving the 105-mile length of picturesque Skyline Drive forces you to slow down and take in the sprawling vistas of the breathtaking Blue Ridge Mountains and the surrounding valley landscapes. You can immerse yourself in wilderness by hiking some of Shenandoah’s 500+ miles of lush nature trails, including the 101 miles of the historic Appalachian Trail that cuts through the park. There are about 80,000 acres of pure, unspoiled wilderness to explore (one of the largest in the eastern United States) that was engineered by the Civilian Conservation Corps as part of FDRs New Deal in the 1930s—that’s 40% of the park! And there are several historical places to visit, such as the famous Skyland Resort and Massanutten Lodge and Herbert Hoover’s “summer White House” at Rapidan Camp. Whether you have one week or only one day to visit, you will find plenty to do at this beautiful escape from the everyday rush.

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The Junior Ranger Program at Shenandoah National Park

In addition to the Basic Junior Ranger Program,
Shenandoah National Park offers three Ranger Explorer
programs for kids ages 13+. Image courtesy nps.gov

There are four different Junior Ranger programs available at Shenandoah National Park: Shenandoah National Park Junior Ranger, The Wild Side of Shenandoah Ranger Explorer (Shenandoah's Wilderness Explorer program), Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer, and Shenandoah's Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer. These activities require hiking trails and answering questions about your observations. And a detailed list of each program and its requirements is outlined below.

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Shenandoah National Park Junior Ranger

Shenandoah National Park Junior
Ranger book and Junior Ranger Patch

This program is designed for kids 7+. It is the basic program that covers the entire park. The Junior Ranger Explorer Notebook, as it is called, is available for purchase online or at any of the Visitor Centers, or you can download it for free online (PDF) and print it out to take with you to the park.

The Junior Ranger Explorer Notebook contains activities to complete during your visit to the park. There are no specific areas you need to visit in order to complete this book. Hiking at least one trail is required so that you are able to record your observations. A full list of the activities listed in the Notebook and their descriptions follows:

• Introductory Page: The notebook begins by asking you basic questions about yourself and your visit to the park.
• Where Are You? Using the provided map, answer questions about the park.
• Trail Explorer: Hike a trail and use the provided checklist to record your observations. Draw a picture of your favorite discovery and answer questions about your hike.
• Traces of the Past: Draw a picture of and answer questions about the house you would have built if you lived in the mountains before Shenandoah became a park. Recalling that many families lived in this area before it was turned into a national park and were forced to leave, record your reflections about this topic.
• Habitat for Deer: Study a deer and answer questions about what you observe. Record ways that you can protect deer and their habitat in the Park and answer related questions to this topic.
• Amazing Adaptations: Study an animal and answer questions about adaptations and behavioral adaptations. Using your imagination, create and explain a drawing of a plant or animal that has an adaptation to help the environment.
• Not an Eagle: Answer questions about the two kinds of Vultures (Turkey and Black) that live in the park using the information provided.
• News of the Weird: Record observations of any strange or new things you see during your visit.
• What’s in the Water? Explore a stream and answer the questions provided.
• Trees are Everywhere: During your hike, find and study a species of tree from the list provided. Record your observations.
• Logs of Life: Explore a log and record your observations.
• What’s on the Rocks and Trees? While on a trail, look for lichens and answer questions about your observations.
• The Air up There: Answer questions about the air quality you observe. Learn about ozone and answer questions using the information and graph provided.
• Monarchs and Milkweeds: Learn about the monarch butterflies that migrate from Mexico and answer questions about them using the information provided.
• They’re Back! Learn about the Peregrine Falcon and answer questions about them using the information provided.
• Shenandoah Words: A crossword puzzle that uses all the words you have learned as you completed the Notebook..

....and that's it!

How to Become a Shenandoah National Park Junior Ranger:

• To get a Sticker: Complete 5 of 15 activities. Show your work to a ranger and receive a “Shenandoah Explorer” sticker.
• To get a Badge or a Patch:
  • Attend two ranger-led programs and have the ranger sign your book.
  • Complete 7 additional activities (total of 12).
  • Return your book to a ranger at Dickey Ridge VC or Byrd VC. If the visitor centers are closed, you can also mail in your book like I did to: Shenandoah NP, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 3655 Highway 211 East, Luray, Virginia 22835

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The Wild Side of Shenandoah Ranger Explorer
(Shenandoah’s Wilderness Explorer Program)

Wild Side of Shenandoah
Ranger Explorer Activity Guideand Shenandoah Wilderness
Ranger Explorer Patch

This program is designed for ages 13+ and focuses on the Shenandoah Wilderness. The Wild Side of Shenandoah Ranger Explorer Activity Guide, according Shenandoah's NPS website, is supposed to be available for free at the visitor center; however it does say “for a limited time.” I wouldn’t take a chance that it’s not at the visitor center when you get there. So better to be sure and just download it online (PDF) and print it out to take with you to the park. That’s what I did! :)

The Wild Side of Shenandoah Ranger Explorer Activity Guide contains activities to complete during your visit to the park. In order to complete this book, you must hike one of the wilderness trails, visit one of the specified overlooks on Skyline Drive, and make a stop at either Dickey Ridge (MP 4.6) or Byrd (MP 51) Visitor Center. 

According to the Activity Guide, this book will take 4-6 hours to complete (including the hike). Luckily when I was visiting the park, I stumbled into one of the wilderness trails listed (Rose River Loop) on my way to view Black Rock Falls so I was able to get the information I needed to complete the book. Yay, two birds! ;)

It is important to note that you do not have to hike the entire wilderness trail! (I certainly didn’t! Rose River Loop was long, and I was already in the middle of hiking the Black Rock Falls Trail as it was.) You just have to go far enough that you are in the wilderness area.

Here’s a list of the “Trails that Enter Wilderness”:

• Overall Run Trail (MP 22)
• Thornton River Trail (MP 25.5)
• Appalachian Trail to Pass Mountain (MP 28.5)
• Hazel Mountain to White Rocks Trail (MP 33.5)
• Cedar Run Trail (MP 45.5)
• Rose River Loop (MP 49.2)
• Old Rag Ridge Trail (Park Boundary)
• Big Run Loop Trail (MP 81.2)
• Riprap Trail to Chimney Rock (MP 90)
• Turk Mountain Trail (MP 94.1)

And now a list of “Overlooks with Views of Wilderness”:

• Hogback Overlook (MP 21)
• Jeremy’s Run Overlook (MP26.5)
• Tunnel Parking Overlook (MP 32.3)
• Hazel Mountain Overlook (MP 33)
• Pinnacles Overlook (MP 35)
• Thorofare Mountain Overlook (MP 40.5)        
• Old Rag View (MP 46.5)
• Brown Mountain Overlook (MP 77)
• Big Run Overlook (MP 81)
• Riprap Overlook (MP 91.5)

Okay so now that you know the areas you need to explore, you can choose one in each category and then get started on completing the book. A full list of the activities listed in the Activity Guide and their descriptions follow:

• What is Wilderness? – Wilderness means different things to different people. In this activity, you will learn and answer questions about what “wilderness” is and what it means to you.
• Where is Wilderness? – Using the National Wilderness Preservation System map, answer the questions listed. (You may have to do this at home; I didn’t know where to get that map at the park, so I did this when I returned.) Also, observing the Shenandoah map on the back of the Activity Guide, answer questions and record your reflections about the Shenandoah wilderness.
• Get Set to Explore – Visit either the Dickey Ridge (MP 4.6) or Byrd (MP 51) Visitor Centers and find the interactive Wilderness computer exhibit called “The Spirit of Wilderness.” Read the “Trailblazers” section and answer a question about it.

Next you will visit the overlook and the trail. Choose one from the list on the back of the Activity Guide. Before you leave the visitor center, be sure to get the map of the trail. The Activity Guide recommends you have someone mark the wilderness boundary for you on your map.

• Do You See What I See? – Here you will be visiting your chosen overlook. Record your observations by answering the questions in your book.
• Where the Wild Things Are – Here you will be hiking your chosen trail. It is important to note that you do not have to hike the entire trail! You just have to go far enough that you are in the wilderness area.
  • Record your observations by answering the questions at the specified points during your hike (trailhead, on the trail, in the wilderness area, etc.). Draw a postcard from the wilderness. Record your thoughts on why it is important to protect the wilderness. Compare that to what you wrote in the first activity.
•  What Would You Do? – Here, you are asked to read about the role of a Wilderness Ranger, the Wilderness Act of 1964 and other policies. Then, you become the Wilderness Ranger. Based on a scenario presented, decide what you would do if you were the Wilderness Ranger. See if your answer lines up with what was actually done.
• What Did They Say? – Answer questions about your thoughts on wilderness and people’s opinion about wilderness. Ask a person about wilderness and record their answers, and at the same time record what you shared with the person about wilderness.

...and that's it!

How to Become a Wild Side of Shenandoah Ranger Explorer (Shenandoah Wilderness Ranger):

To get your Shenandoah Wilderness Explorer patch, complete the entire book and turn it in to a ranger at Dickey Ridge VC or Byrd VC. If the visitor centers are closed, you can also mail in your book like I did to: Shenandoah NP, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 3655 Highway 211 East, Luray, Virginia 22835

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Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer Program

Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer
Activity Guide and Ranger Explorer Patch

This program is designed for ages 13+ and focuses on the Stony Man Trail. You will be learning about Rock Outcrops and the plants and animals that live there. The Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer Activity Guide, according to Shenandoah's NPS website, is supposed to be available for free at the visitor center; however it does say “for a limited time.” I wouldn’t take a chance that it’s not at the visitor center when you get there. So better to be sure and just download it online (PDF) and print it out to take with you to the park. That’s what I did! :)

The Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer Activity Guide contains activities to complete during your visit to the park. In order to complete this book, you must hike the Stony Man Trail (MP 41.7; this trail is worth hiking anyway even if you don’t want to do the book; it’s a pretty easy hike and has great views). You will also need the Nature Notes sheets about Amphibians, Lichen, and the Peregrine Falcon (all PDFs). They are supposedly included with your Activity Guide when you pick it up from the visitor center, but again, the likelihood that they have this program available at the visitor center is slim, so it’s better to just download them print them yourself when you go to download the Activity Guide.

Notes: Stony Man Trail is part of the Appalachian Trail for some time before it splits off to the summit. Take advantage and complete the Shenandoah Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer Activity Guide while you’re at it! :) Also, at the trailhead you’ll see a box with the Stony Man Trail Guide. Totally worth the $1.00! It has a lot of interesting information you can read about at each marked stop on the way up to the summit, and you’ll be helping out the park at the same time. :)

A full list of the activities listed in the Activity Guide and their descriptions follows:

• Small but Mighty – On your way up to the summit, stop at Post #11. Read the Nature Notes article about Lichen. Investigate them and record your observations.
• On Top of the World – Once you reach the summit, complete these activities. You will be observing the view, air quality and continuing your investigation of lichen.
• Life “On the Rocks” – Complete these activities at the summit. Read the Nature Notes article about the Peregrine Falcon and answer questions about these threatened birds. You will also read the Nature Notes article about Amphibians and answering questions about them. Now that you have learned about these animals, you will investigate this area’s potential as a habitat and record your observations.
• Express Yourself – In this activity, you will write or draw about the area. Complete 2 of the 3 activities listed.
• What Does it All Mean? – In this activity, you will analyze the rock outcrop “community” and think about why they are important and how they are all connected by answering questions. You will also be asked to apply these same ideas to your own community and record your thoughts.
• The Future of Shenandoah’s Rock Outcrops – In this activity, you will think about how the park works to preserve and protect the rock outcrop communities. As a “Park Manager,” you will think about and make decisions about how to preserve these communities and record your thoughts. 

...and that's it!

How to Become a Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer:

To get your patch, complete the entire book and turn it in to a ranger at Dickey Ridge VC or Byrd VC. If the visitor centers are closed, you can also mail in your book like I did to: Shenandoah NP, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 3655 Highway 211 East, Luray, Virginia 22835

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The Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer Program
at Shenandoah National Park

Shenandoah's Appalachian Trail Ranger
Explorer Activity Guide and Appalachian
Trail Ranger Explorer Patch

This program is designed for ages 13+ and focuses on the Appalachian Trail. You will be hiking on the nation’s most famous hiking trail, where thousands of people have gone before you!

The Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer Activity Guide, according to Shenandoah's NPS website, is supposed to be available for free at the visitor center; however it does say “for a limited time.” I wouldn’t take a chance that it’s not at the visitor center when you get there. So better to be sure and just download it online (PDF) and print it out to take with you to the park. That’s what I did! :)

The Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer Activity Guide contains activities to complete during your visit to the park. In order to complete this book, you must hike the Spitler Knoll Overlook to Rock Spring Shelter Trail (MP 48.06; 1.6mi roundtrip). According to the Activity Guide, it will take 3-4 hours to complete (including the hikes).

A full list of the activities listed in the Activity Guide and their descriptions follows:

• Getting Started – Learn about the history and management of the Appalachian Trail (AT) from the AT map/ brochure. (I didn’t have that brochure so I did this part at home.)
• One Man’s Journal – Read about Paul’s journey on the Appalachian Trail and answer questions about his experiences and how you would fare on your own journey through the AT.
• Hike the AT! – Record your observations as you hike to Rock Spring Cabin.
• A Living Legacy – This activity is done at the Rock Spring Cabin at the end of the trail. You will learn about cabin, the Civilian Conservation Corps who built it and answer questions about what you learned.
• Express Yourself – In this activity, you will write your own AT journal entry. You will also either write about or draw a picture of the cabin you visited.
• Impacts on the AT – Here you will reflect on the growth of people, roads, and commercial development and the importance of protecting the environment.

...and that's it!

How to Become a Shenandoah Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer:

To get your patch, pin or medallion, complete the entire book and turn it in to a ranger at Dickey Ridge VC or Byrd VC. If the visitor centers are closed, you can also mail in your book like I did to: Shenandoah NP, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 3655 Highway 211 East, Luray, Virginia 22835

Update: Shenandoah National Park

Junior Ranger Package from
Shenandoah National Park

Hello Junior Rangers! Here’s another package from the big mailing I received the other day.

If you recall, about a week and a half ago, I posted that I mailed out a ton of completed Junior Ranger books that I either got online or from my road trip in April (You can read about that here). Shenandoah was one of those. Here’s a list of the goodies that were inside:

Shenandoah National Park Junior Ranger Patch

Shenandoah NP Junior Ranger Patch – awarded for completing the Shenandoah Junior Ranger Book (also returned in the package). You’re supposed to get a sticker and then choose between a badge and patch; I had asked for all three, but she only sent me the patch (easier to mail?)

Rock On, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer Patch Shenandoah National Park

Rock on, Stony Man! Ranger Explorer Patch – awarded for completing the Rock on, Stony Man Ranger Explorer activity guide (also returned in the package).

Shenandoah National Park Wilderness Explorer Patch

Wilderness Ranger Explorer Patch – awarded for completing the Wild Side of Shenandoah Ranger Explorer activity guide (also returned in the package).

Shenandoah National Park Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer Patch

Shenandoah NP AT Ranger Explorer Patch – awarded for completing the Shenandoah NP Appalachian Trail Ranger Explorer activity guide (also returned in the package). There is a choice between patch, medallion and pin; I did ask for all if possible, but she probably chose the patch cause it’s easier to mail (I don’t blame her, lol). If I visit there again I will try for something else. :)

Letter from Ranger Hall

Letter from Ranger Hall – This was nice; just kind of a general letter acknowledging that I completed the program, the enclosures, etc. She talked about her favorite spots in the park and also suggested that I visit the Herbert Hoover Cabin at Rapidan Camp which is in Shenandoah NP. I had heard about it, but did not have time to visit during this trip. Maybe next time. :)

And that’s it! It was a nice reward for completing all those books. Please read a little bit about the park, which I have posted below, and definitely check it out the next time you’re in Virginia; the scenery is amazing. But in the meantime…

Explore On, Junior Ranger! :)

Want your own Shenandoah National Park Badge or Patch? Download the activity book online, complete the requisite activities and mail it back to the park (Shenandoah NP, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 3655 Highway 211 East, Luray, Virginia 22835). You’ll get a badge or a patch for your efforts. :)

If you’re over 13 years old, check out the Rock on Stony Man, Wild Side of Shenandoah and Shenandoah Appalachian Trail books. They’re all available online so you can print them to take with you to the park. Complete the requisite activities and mail them back to the park to the above address. You’ll get some cool patches for your efforts. :)

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About Shenandoah National Park

Shenandoah National Park at Sunset. Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Shenandoah National Park is a great way to experience the great American outdoors. Driving the 105-mile length of picturesque Skyline Drive forces you to slow down and take in the sprawling vistas of the breathtaking Blue Ridge Mountains and the surrounding valley landscapes. You can immerse yourself in wilderness by hiking some of Shenandoah’s 500+ miles of lush nature trails, including the 101 miles of the historic Appalachian Trail that cuts through the park. There are about 80,000 acres of pure, unspoiled wilderness to explore (one of the largest in the eastern United States) that was engineered by the Civilian Conservation Corps as part of FDRs New Deal in the 1930s—that’s 40% of the park! And there are several historical places to visit, such as the famous Skyland Resort and Massanutten Lodge and Herbert Hoover’s “summer White House” at Rapidan Camp. Whether you have one week or only one day to visit, you will find plenty to do at this beautiful escape from the everyday rush.

Update: Fort Donelson National Battlefield

Package from Fort Donelson NB

Hello Junior Rangers! Here’s another package from the big mailing I received the other day.

If you recall, about a week and a half ago, I posted that I mailed out a ton of completed Junior Ranger books that I either got from online or from my road trip in April (You can read about that here). Fort Donelson National Battlefield was one of those. 

Here’s a list of the goodies that were inside:

Fort Donelson Junior Ranger Badge and Junior Ranger Patch

Fort Donelson NB Junior Ranger Badge – awarded for completing the Fort Donelson NB Junior Ranger Book (also returned in the package). Fort Donelson NB Junior Ranger Patch – This was nice of Ranger Austin to send because as far as I know you’re only supposed to get a badge. I don’t have any information that says that you are supposed to get a patch too, so yay. :)

Rack Card for Junior Civil War Historian Patch

Rack Card for the Junior Civil War Historian Patch – kind of like Traveling Clara Barton, you’re supposed to get this Rack Card signed by three participating parks. I will just be mailing all three to the final park to get the patch (like I did with my Traveling Clara Barton package.)

Trading Cards from Fort Donelson NB

NPS Trading Cards for Fort Donelson NB – I kindly asked for them in my letter and Ranger Austin was nice enough to send them to me. I know some parks don’t do that so I am very appreciative that she did that. :)

Letter from Ranger Austin

Letter from Ranger Austin: This was nice; just kind of a general letter acknowledging that I completed the program, the enclosures, etc.

And that’s it! It was a nice reward for completing the book. Please read about the park, which I have posted below, and check it out the next time you’re in Tennessee. But in the meantime…

Explore On, Junior Ranger! :)

Want your own Fort Donelson NB Junior Ranger badge? Download the activity book online, complete the requisite activities and mail it back to the park (Fort Donelson NB, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, Post Office Box 434, Dover, Tennessee, 37058). You’ll get a badge and maybe they’ll send you some cool swag too. :)

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About Fort Donelson National Battlefield

Self-Guided Tour Map of Fort Donelson National Battlefield
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Things to Do

Fort Donelson National Battlefield is located in Dover, Tennessee, which is about 83 miles northwest of Nashville, Tennessee.

Once you arrive at the battlefield, be sure to start your visit at the Visitor Center. There is a museum with exhibits of Civil War artifacts, the Underground Railroad, and the legacy of the Civil War. There is also an orientation film entitled “Fort Donelson: Gateway to the Confederate Heartland,” which describes the lifelong friendship between Union General Ulysses S. Grant and Confederate General Simon B Buckner. In addition, you will learn how the Confederates built three earthen forts near the park, which includes Fort Heiman and Fort Henry. Ironically, all three sites were eventually used by freedom-seeking slaves as refuge sites.

Entrance to Fort Donelson
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Once you finish getting to know the battlefield’s history through the exhibits and film, you are ready to embark on the Park Tour. Before you leave the center, be sure to grab the Park Tour brochure (and your Junior Ranger book!). The Park Tour is a self-guided driving tour that is six miles long; there are also interpretive walking trails. Guided tours may be available; be sure to call ahead to check availability.

On your self-guided tour you will have stops at the Confederate Monument, the entrance to Fort Donelson, the Log Huts, the Lower River Batteries, the site of Smith’s Attack, the Union Camp, Graves’ and French’s Batteries, and Forge Road.

Dover Hotel (Surrender House)
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Exhibits inside Dover Hotel
(Surrender House)
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

At Stop 10 of the Tour, you will see Dover Hotel, also known as Surrender House (where Grant and Buckner met for surrender). Here you will see exhibits about the Dover Hotel, first person accounts of the battle and surrender, and life in Dover, TN after the battle.

Fort Donelson National Cemetery
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

At the final stop of the tour (Stop 11), you will arrive at Fort Donelson National Cemetery. This National Cemetery is where many Union soldiers were re-interred from the battlefield itself and local and hospital cemeteries from Dover and nearby towns. Because it is a National Cemetery, the site contains both Civil War veterans and veterans who have served the US since that time along with their spouses and dependent children.

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History of Fort Donelson National Battlefield

Artist Conception of Fort Donelson
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Flag Officer
Andrew H. Foote
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

On the cold morning of February 14, 1862, Andrew H Foote’s Union gunboat fleet arrived from Fort Henry via the Tennessee and Ohio Rivers. The fleet included ironclads St Louis, Pittsburgh, Louisville, and Carondolet and the timberclads Conestoga and Tyler. These vessels exchanged attacks with the eleven big guns located in the Southern water batteries for over an hour and a half. During this time, the Confederates wounded Foote, and the Union gunboats were so badly damaged that they were forced to retreat.

Gen. Simon B. Buckner
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

The Confederates rejoiced at this retreat; however their celebration was tainted with the realization that Grant was still receiving reinforcements on a daily basis. This enabled him to extend his right flank to Lick Creek, and as a result, Grant had, in effect, encircled the Southern troops. If Confederate generals John Floyd, Gideon Pillow, Simon Buckner and Bushrod Johnson did not act quickly, they would be forced to surrender due to starvation.

Gen. Gideon J. Pillow
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Gen. John B. Floyd
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

In response to Grant’s move, the generals amassed their troops against the Union’s right in an attempt to clear a route to Nashville—a path that would lead them to safety. On February 15, the armies fought furiously and the Union Army reluctantly retreated in the afternoon. It appeared that the Confederates' way to safety would be cleared; however, as a result of confusion and indecision on the part of the Confederate commanders, their troops were foolishly ordered to return to their entrenchments. Grant seized the opportunity and launched a vicious counterattack, which allowed them to retake most of the ground they had lost and, in addition, gain new positions. This effectively closed off the escape route once again. With the Cumberland River behind them, the Confederates were surrounded.

"Unconditional Surrender" Letter
from Gen. Grant to Gen. Buckner
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Confederate commanders Floyd and Pillow turned over command of Fort Donelson to Buckner. Afterward, Floyd and Pillow snuck away to Nashville with an army of about 2,000 men, while others followed Colonel Nathan Bedford Forrest to escape across Lick Creek. On the morning of February 16, Buckner sent word to Grant asking for terms. Grant famously replied: “No terms except an unconditional and immediate surrender can be accepted.” Defeated, Buckner surrendered. (Click here for a transcript of the correspondence between Grant and Buckner.)

The Aftermath of the Fort Donelson Campaign

Of the approximately 16,000 Confederates who fought at the battle of Fort Donelson, more than 12,000 were captured or missing, while about 1,400 others were wounded or killed. Of the estimated 24,500 Union troops who engaged in battle, the total casualties were around 2,700.

Soon after the Confederate surrender, civilians and relief agencies amassed to assist the Union Army. Among these were the US Sanitary Commission, which brought food, medical supplies and hospital ships; civilians searching for loved ones; and women acting as nurses such as Mary Bickerdyke, who cared for and comforted the sick and wounded.

After Fort Donelson fell, the South was forced to give up southern Kentucky (ensuring that it would remain in the Union) and much of Middle and West Tennessee, which opened the state to future Union advances. The Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers would become vital Union supply lines, along with the local railroads in the area. Nashville would be developed into a major supply depot for the Union army in the west. This action tore open the heartland of the Confederacy, and would allow the Union to press on in its goal to unify the states once and for all.

“Unconditional Surrender” Grant

Gen. Ulysses S. Grant
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

When the North captured Fort Donelson, and previously Fort Henry (on February 6), it not only signified its first great victory, it also served to propel Grant to the spotlight as a hero (he was later known as “Unconditional Surrender” Grant as a result of his famous surrender quote) and promotion by President Lincoln to Major General. His subsequent victories at Shiloh, Vicksburg and Chattanooga would lead to further promotion to Lieutenant General and Union Army Commander. And the great and final victory of Lee’s surrender at Appomattox would later usher him into the White House.

Sources: nps.gov, history.com

Update: Fort Matanzas National Monument

Junior Ranger Package from
Fort Matanzas NM

Hello Junior Rangers! Here’s another package from the big mailing I received the other day.

If you recall, about a week and a half ago, I posted that I mailed out a ton of completed Junior Ranger books that I either got online or from my road trip in April (You can read about that here). Fort Matanzas NM was one of those. 

Here’s what was inside:

Fort Matanzas NM Junior Ranger Badge and Master Junior Ranger Patch

Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger Badge – awarded for completing the Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger Book (also included.) Fort Matanzas Master Junior Ranger Patch – awarded for completing the Fort Matanzas Master Junior Ranger activities in addition to the Junior Ranger book activities.

Fort Matanzas NM Junior Ranger Certificate

Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger Certificate – awarded for completing the Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger book.

Castillo de San Marcos NM Junior Ranger Badge and Master Junior Ranger Patch

Castillo de San Marcos Junior Ranger Badge – awarded for completing the Castillo de San Marcos Junior Ranger Book. I have no idea why they sent this because I did not send the book to this address. I wonder if it’s because I referenced that I had completed it in my letter… I guess they went by the honor system? Very trusting over there, lol. Castillo de San Marcos Master Junior Ranger Patch – awarded for completing the Castillo de San Marcos Master Junior Ranger activities in addition to the Junior Ranger book activities. Again, I have no idea why they sent this because I didn’t send my book to this address; I just referenced it in my letter, lol.

Letter from Ranger Rich and My Original Letter

Letter from Ranger Rich, Fort Matanzas Site Supervisor: This was nice; just kind of a general letter acknowledging that I completed the program, the enclosures, etc. The fact that he sent me both badges and patches confirms that I could have sent Castillo de San Marcos and Fort Matanzas to the same place (and would have saved $1.50 in postage too!). My Original Letter – this was also returned to me for some reason...

And that’s it! It was a nice reward for completing the book. Please read about the park, which I have posted below, and check it out the next time you’re in North Florida. But in the meantime…

Explore On, Junior Ranger! :)

Want your own Fort Matanzas Junior Ranger badge and Master Junior Ranger patch? Download the activity book online, complete the requisite activities and mail it back to the park (Fort Matanzas NM, Attn: Junior Ranger Program, 1 South Castillo Drive, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084). You’ll get a badge and Master Junior Ranger patch. :)

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About Fort Matanzas National Monument

Ferry travels to Fort Matanzas National Monument. Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Things to Do

Map of Fort Matanzas NM. Image Courtesy nps.gov

Despite its small size, there are still many things to do at Fort Matanzas. Visitors are able to explore the fort by walking around the fort, viewing the exhibits or attending a Ranger Program. Brochures are available to help guide you on your visit. At the Visitor Center, you can watch a video outlining the fort’s history upon request.

There are self-guided boardwalk nature trails (brochures available in the visitor center) that lead through the maritime forest; there is also a beach boardwalk to explore. River shore fishing is allowed.

Tours to the fort are free; however you will need to take a ferry to get there. Free Boarding Passes are required and are available at the Visitor Center.

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History of Fort Matanzas

Fort Matanzas National Monument
Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Fort Matanzas reminds us of the mighty Spanish empire and the conflicts they and other European nations engaged in as they battled for land and power in the developing New World.  For many years, this small coquina structure and fortified watchtower, built in the middle of nowhere, was occupied by seven Spanish soldiers charged with maintaining the safety and security of St Augustine, located 14 miles to the North.

Its story begins nearly 175 years prior to the construction of the Fort, with the Spanish massacre of French forces in 1565. That incident, likely to have taken place within the area which is now Fort Matanzas National Monument, is what cemented Spanish control of Florida for nearly 235 years and would lead to the naming of the Matanzas River.

The French “Challenge” Spain

Sketch of Fort Caroline.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Florida was claimed by the Spanish in 1513 after Ponce de Leon’s expedition there; but France gained the first position there by establishing Fort Caroline on the St Johns River in 1564 under the direction of Rene de Laudonniere. The Spanish saw this as a challenge to Spain’s claim on the territory and a potential threat to their treasure fleets. And despite protests from King Phillip II of Spain, Frenchman Jean Ribault sailed from France in May 1565 with 600 soldiers and settlers with the intent to resupply Fort Caroline.

Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles
Photo Courtesy

Spain Retaliates Against the French

In response, King Philip II sent an expedition to eliminate the French threat and to establish settlements in Florida. They also sailed in May 1565. The 800-person expedition group, led by Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles, arrived to St Johns River in September 1565, shortly after Ribault. Menendez was unsuccessful in boarding the French ships that were anchored there, so he sailed farther south to a Timucuan village called Seloy. The Spanish landed there on September 8 and named their new settlement St Augustine because the land had first been sighted on August 28 (the Feast Day of St Augustine). He established the settlement to use as a base for further operations against the French.

Ribault Makes His Move; Menendez Counters

Jean Ribault
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Two days later, the French, led by Jean Ribault, immediately sent a fleet south to attack the Spanish settlement at St Augustine, but a violent storm (hurricane) caused them to be wrecked and scattered along the Florida coast (somewhere between present-day Daytona Beach and Cape Canaveral).

Anticipating that Fort Caroline would be less-guarded, the Spanish, led by Menendez, headed northward to attack the fort. His assumption was correct and he was easily able to capture the French settlement, killing most of the men in battle. Some of the inhabitants, including Fort Caroline’s founder Rene de Laudonniere, were able to escape to ships and return to France. Menendez spared the women and children and sent them to Havana.

The Massacre

Menendez then learned from the Timucuan Indians that a group of white men were on the beach a few miles south of St Augustine. These were the survivors of the wreck of the French fleet. Menendez marched with 70 soldiers to where the inlet had blocked the 127 Frenchmen trying to get back to Fort Caroline.

Armed with a translator (a captured Frenchman), Menendez told the survivors how he had captured Fort Caroline and urged them to surrender; however, he made no promises that he would spare them. The survivors, having lost most of their provisions and weapons to the sea, decided to surrender. Menendez then demanded that they give up their Protestant faith and accept Catholicism. When they refused, 111 Frenchmen were killed. Only sixteen were spared: a few who said they were Catholic, some who were impressed Breton sailors and four artisans they could use at St Augustine.

Two weeks later, history would repeat itself. More French shipwreck survivors would appear at the inlet, including Jean Ribault. On October 12, Ribault and his men surrendered. Menendez again demanded the survivors give up their Protestant faith and accept Catholicism. When they refused, 134 of them were killed.

Afterward, that area became known as Matanzas, which is Spanish for “slaughters.”

One of the early, wooden watchtowers
as described in a 1671 document.
Image courtesy nps.gov

Early Days of Fort Matanzas

In 1569, the Spanish built a wooden watchtower and thatched hut just north of Matanzas inlet. It was just large enough to house six soldiers. These individuals were responsible for watching the ocean waters for potential enemy threats. If a ship was spotted, a soldier would be sent to alert St Augustine via canoe, horseback, or on foot.

The Backdoor Left Open

In November 1702, Governor Moore of Charleston, Carolina came to St Augustine to lay siege against the city. His troops were pushed back by the arrival of a relief fleet from Havana that trapped the British ships within St Augustine’s harbor. This forced Governor Moore to burn his own ships in order to escape capture by the Spanish; he also set fire to the city as they fled.

After this siege, an effort was made to strengthen the defenses of St Augustine. One of the ways they did this was to construct earthwork lines on the north and west sides of the city. The walls they created would protect their homes and property from being destroyed again; however Matanzas Inlet was left unfortified.

General James Oglethorpe
Image courtesy nps.gov

The need to correct that error became apparent in 1740 when General James Oglethorpe and his troops came from Fort Federica (Georgia) and attacked St Augustine. Because Matanzas Inlet was left unfortified, he was able to establish a blockade there. Although he was unsuccessful in his mission to capture the city and Castillo de San Marcos, his attack showed the Spanish that Matanzas Inlet had important strategic value and required a strong outpost to defend it. Governor Manuel de Montiano was convinced that he needed to build a better and more equipped watchtower than the existing wooden structure and thatched hut at Matanzas Inlet. He realized that if the British would have seized the area, they could have starved St Augustine to surrender. Thus the idea to build Fort Matanzas was born; an idea necessary to secure the “backdoor” to St Augustine.

The Fort is Built

Coquina stone.
Image Courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Governor Montiano, without the king’s permission, commissioned engineer Pedro Ruiz de Olano to build a stone structure at Matanzas Inlet that would be stronger and more reliable against the elements and enemies. This was taboo because, at the time, all fortifications required the king’s permission (approval) before construction could begin. Governor Montiano was afraid another attack would occur before the official permission was given, so he began construction anyway.

Work began on the tower in late 1740. Like Castillo de San Marcos in St Augustine, Fort Matanzas was built using coquina, a natural light and porous shell-stone, which was quarried at El Pinon (a small inlet south of Matanzas). Building the tower proved difficult as the marshy grounds at Matanzas did not provide for easy construction; long beams had to be driven into the marsh to support the stonework.

Example of a Sloop.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Under Construction, Under Attack

Construction was interrupted by attacks led by the British and Indians. On July 21, 1741, the British moved in to attack the Spanish. Two British ships, a sloop called St Philip and a schooner, sighted a Spanish sloop anchored at Matanzas Inlet. Unnoticed by the British, a Spanish galliot was able to fire upon them from long range; however they did not hit their mark. The British only stopped their advance when fog settled in and the sun went down.

Example of a Galliot.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

The next day, the British resumed their attack. The sloop St Philip moved in on the Spanish sloop, which ran aground on a sandbar in its attempt to move away from the approaching British vessel. The British opened fire on the stranded ship, killing two and wounding two others. The Spanish galliot was able to open fire on the British ships, effectively preventing them from advancing further. Luckily, the galliot was able to force the British ships to retreat back to the open sea; otherwise, the British would have succeeded in destroying the Fort Matanzas construction.

Oglethorpe returned in September 1742. By this time, Fort Matanzas had been fully constructed and armed with cannons. The British retreated without firing a shot; however, Oglethorpe was persistent and returned the following April to try again. Heavy surf conditions prevented him from approaching the inlet or landing men and arms at the beach. Neither side fired a shot.

The design’s main strength was in its location and its armaments. The structure was built on an island which was less than two-acres large. In 1750, five cannons were mounted to cover all directions of approach (only two cast iron cannons from 1793 remain). The rear of the gundeck held a water cistern which could hold 1,500 gallons of rainwater.

Fort Matanzas and the American Period

When the British gained control of Fort Matanzas in 1763, they too maintained the fort as a watchtower. They staffed the watchtower with one sergeant, six or eight infantrymen and one private from the Royal Artillery. Life for the British soldiers at the fort probably included drills, repairing the fort and equipment and foraging for food. As the American colonies moved towards revolt, more cannons were added; two 18-pounders were placed at the fort in 1763.

Sketch of Fort Matanzas in 1872.
Image Courtesy nps.gov

Unfortunately, when Florida was purchased by the United States in 1821, much of the fort’s interior was in ruin and the wall and foundation at the gun platform’s east wall had cracked. Only three Spanish soldiers were living at Fort Matanzas at the time. The US Army sent an inspector to visit the site and reported back to his superiors that the tower was obsolete and was only important for historical value. Despite its ownership by the War Department, the United States army never occupied Fort Matanzas.

During the Civil War, the Union forces occupied St Augustine starting in March 1862. Confederate blockades attempted to use the Matanzas Inlet at times, but the Union army had stationed a barge in the river near the ruins of Fort Matanzas so their attempts to pass were not successful. Even all of this activity had little effect on the old, rundown tower; soon the area was abandoned again. As time passed, the tower began to deteriorate further and by 1872 was cracking and overrun with vegetation.

Fort Matanzas was dedicated as a National Monument on October 15, 1924 and handed over to the National Park Service in 1933. As a monument, Fort Matanzas, commemorates the Spanish phase of Florida’s Colonial American history. The fort has undergone a lot of stabilization and restoration to preserve its historic integrity, and as a result it stands similar to its original design.

Restoring and Preserving Fort Matanzas

Fort Matanzas in 1912. Photo Courtesy nps.gov

Wealthy visitors such as Henry Flagler and the Rockefellers came downriver from St Augustine to tour the Matanzas ruins. They believed that the historic structures of Fort Matanzas and Fort Marion (Castillo de San Marcos, as it was then known) should be saved and appealed to their friends and congressmen for help. In 1916, Congress distributed $1,025 for the repair of these structures—this act marked the first time that the federal government granted money for historical preservation.

Fort Matanzas Reconstruction, 1938.
Photo courtesy nps.gov

With Congress’ money in hand, Eugene Johnson was contracted to stabilize Fort Matanzas in 1924. Additional extensive repairs were done on Fort Matanzas. The sentry box was rebuilt, iron rods were placed within the tower, and the gun deck parapet and lower walls were rebuilt. The land surrounding the fort, known as Rattlesnake Island, was dedicated as a bird sanctuary. During the 1930s, Fort Matanzas was designated as a WPA project. A steel bulkhead and two groins were built along the water’s edge. They also rebuilt the vaulted ceiling in the officer’s quarters. Wooden stairways leading into the fort and up to the officer’s quarters were also built.

Eventually, additional land from Anastasia Island was also acquired and a dock and visitor center/superintendent’s house was able to be constructed. These structures were also made of coquina. With the dock in place, people without boats could visit the historic fort.

Today, Fort Matanzas National Monument consists of nearly 300 acres. Much of the land is preserved as a natural habitat, but the National Park Service continues to administer and preserve the fort.

Sources: nps.gov, staugustine.com